Pattern Grading for Larger Sizes
This is the second in a series of articles that answers the most common questions we get about grading and the grading process.
How do I grade for larger sizes?
How do I make sizes for bodies that don't look like mine?
Don't be intimidated! It's not as hard as it seems. Grading for larger sizes is the same as grading for any size in the range of sizes you want to use in your pattern. The principles and grading steps are exactly the same.
Let me say that again. It’s exactly the same as for other sizes.
What are these steps? Here is an abbreviated grading process (get more in-depth info in our masterclass on grading):
Determine the key body points for the design
Determine the grade rules (or design ease) at those points
Calculate your target measurements for all the sizes in your range
Calculate the stitches and rows/rounds and shaping
Even though you may mentally get that the process is the same, you might still feel lost and overwhelmed. There are a few things you can do to make your journey to offering size inclusive patterns a little easier.
Start super simple, without sleeves. Perhaps begin with a vest. A tank top can also be great launch point! Then when you hone your grading system for that, you can add sleeves or different shaping or necklines or other constructions. I would plan to riff on the same basic block for a while until you are tired of it.
Make a toile. It might help you (especially if you are hands on and visual) to play around with some cheap knit fabric on a dressform or your own body to get an idea of what happens at each part of the garment design and how the pieces relate to each other as the shaping changes.
Become a student of bodies. Not to be weird or creepy, but for education, study the shapes of larger bodies, how they vary from your own, how clothes fit or don't fit, how the curves add length and where are the parts that would be tricky where they wouldn't be for your own size.
Notice what parts don't change very much and what body parts do change and how they are related as the size increases. Be a student and start to internalize the various ways that clothing covers body shapes.
Journal your learning: you can download croquis (body sketches) of larger bodies to draw on, follow makers and companies that specialize in larger sizes, study the finished projects of makers who aren't your size.
Use a body size chart to base your sizes on, don't guess! Get different extended size charts to see what the math is between sizes and how the proportions change as the chest girth increases. You can learn more about size charts in this post.
Study other designer's patterns. Have you noticed someone is releasing patterns that fit larger bodies well? Buy them and study how they made the sizing work! There is nothing wrong with supporting good design and excellent pattern writing with your money. Just be careful--don't use their pattern numbers as a base for your own designs, that is 100% unethical. Learn strategies and concepts, but do your own work.
Don’t make assumptions about anything. There are some common misconceptions about fitting larger body sizes that you might need to shed. Larger sizes don’t need more ease to fit better. Larger sizes don’t want bigger necks, bigger cuffs, or more fabric at their middles. They want the same fit and same ease you have decided works best for your sample. If they want a different fit, they’ll size up or down. Not sure that this is true? Ask your makers!
The only way through is to DO. The first design will be brain bending and hard. BUT if you push through the unknown into the known, it gets easier and easier with each design. Hire help, too! There are many tech editors that specialize in garments that would be willing to do some hand-holding through the hard parts. You can find a list of tech editors here.
If this seems like a challenge, don't put off diving into understanding if offering an extended size range is important to you. Your future customers will thank you for taking the time to comprehend and apply this essential aspect of pattern design.
Did this help you? I would love to hear from you, so feel free to contact me with your thoughts. And do let me know what part of grading are you afraid of and what hold you back from grading confidently?
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Sarah Walworth is an instructor for A Masterclass on Grading and the owner of the Tech Editor Hub. She is a tech editor, knitting instructor, and loves to solve grading problems. You can find out more about her at www.sarahwalworth.com.